Sunday 24th February
The sky cleared as we approached to reveal the first view of the Peninsula. Land glided quietly by and to be one of so few who have experienced this is a privilege. What makes this place so special apart from its stunning form and structure is the acknowledgement between nations that it should never be used for commercial gain and that it will only be used for peaceful and scientific purposes.
Everybody still wants a piece of Antarctica, and there are bases ‘owned’ by a number of countries scattered around this part of the continent.
The light quality is remarkable and the similarity to the light experienced flying at 30,000ft is striking. The hole in the ozone layer is as large as the continent itself.
Monday 25th February
Our Passage south through the night was slowed by high winds. Reached Neko Harbour in Andvord Bay at 09.30am, 90 mins later than predicted. The bay was awe-inspiring; surrounded on both sides by snow covered mountains and glaciers. Icebergs of various sizes and colours floated gently by while humpback whales, seals and penguins made themselves known. It was hard to know where to look as one vista was more stunning than the other.
Like yesterday the weather improved remarkably, from strong winds, grey skies and choppy seas to minimal breeze, with sunshine and clouds creating beautiful reflections on still waters. All this accompanied by the occasional thunder-like sound of large chunks of ice or snow falling into the sea somewhere near us.
The landing at Neko was poignant as it is one of the few accessible landing spots on the continent itself. The large colony of gentoo penguins paid little attention to us bar a few who became very curious and pecked at our boots. Again it was made very clear to us that this is their territory and they have all the rights so we moved out of their way if we crossed their paths. Their lack of fear was quite remarkable and suggests that we have managed the increased tourist access to Antarctica in a responsible way.